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From Duck Eggs to Chicken Eggs: The Change of Diet in Urban China, 1850-1950

arrow iconDate(s): 2022/07/07

arrow iconTime: 10:00~12:00

*Venue: Archives 1st Conference Hall

*Speaker:Prof. Ning Jennifer Chang ( Research fellow and Director of IMH Archives )

*Disscussant: Prof. Jia-Chen Fu ( Associate Professor, Department of Russian and East Asian Languages and Cultures ,Emory College )

*Organizer: IMH

*視訊會議連結:https://asmeet.webex.com/asmeet/j.php?MTID=m001fe9e05fe8386567401b4740ff4d94
    會議號:2519 277 4383
    密碼:2bUTVxRnP55
*Webex Meetings 操作說明及FAQ

摘要:
禽蛋向來為珍貴食材,傳統中國在蛋類食用方面,至少在長江流域及其以南的地方,鴨蛋實佔多數。鴨蛋因抗溫性強,可保存期限較長,又可以製成皮蛋、鹹蛋;加上可以在河湖一帶數百隻、上千隻的大量養殖,集中販賣,因此自清中葉以來,市場流通以鴨蛋為主。至於雞蛋,因分佈零散,在鐵路、輪船未引進之前,很難在保持鮮度的情況下,運至遠方集散市場。
但在二十世紀上半葉,由於蛋品工業的蓬勃發展,雞蛋的產量大增,口岸城市如南京、漢口、天津、上海、青島等地,經常有固定雞蛋供應。津浦、平漢、膠濟鐵路沿線城鎮,也因大量收蛋之故,市場上雞蛋數量漸增。更重要的是,西方營養科學的引進,出於西人只吃雞蛋、不吃鴨蛋的習慣,受西方訓練的生物化學家或醫師在改良中國膳食的建議中,遂捨營養成分相近的鴨蛋不論,專門提倡多食雞蛋,甚至將雞蛋與牛乳並列為最完美的食物,雞蛋的重要性遂達到前所未有的高度。在此現代化的論述下,鴨蛋逐漸退居二線,終至隱微,至於皮蛋與鹹蛋,則華麗轉身,成為代表中國傳統的文化性商品。



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